Used Golf Club Buyer's Checklist

Look for an even centred wear pattern on the face. Heavy toe or heel wear means the previous owner had a swing fault — fine for resale value, but expect a 5-10% discount versus a centred-wear club.

Run a fingernail across the grooves on a wedge or short iron. If it does not catch, the grooves are worn and spin will suffer. Wedges with rounded grooves should be priced as "playable for practice" — under $40.

Rest the shaft on two fingers and tap both ends. A clean ringing tone means the graphite or steel is intact. A dull thud signals a cracked or epoxy-fatigued shaft. Walk away.

Look at the joint where the shaft enters the head. Hairline cracks, ferrule misalignment, or a visible gap mean the head has been re-shafted poorly. Re-shafting alone is fine — bad re-shafting is a structural problem.

Hard, shiny, or slick grips need replacement at $8-15 per club. Factor this into your offer. A full set with original grips and 50+ rounds is a "must re-grip" situation.

For irons and wedges: deep gouges in the sole are cosmetic. Bent leading edges affect playability. For drivers and woods: any crown crack disqualifies the club, no exceptions.

If buying irons, ask if the lofts have been adjusted. A 5-iron bent 4�� strong plays like a 4-iron and will gap incorrectly with your other clubs. Reputable shops disclose adjustments on the receipt.

For TaylorMade, Callaway, Titleist, Ping, and PXG: check serial numbers against the manufacturer database. Counterfeit Asian-market clubs flood used markets — same look, half the COR, brittle face. ReGolf authenticates every club before listing.

Original headcovers add 5-10% to resale value. Wrenches and adjustment tools for adjustable drivers/woods are worth $15-25 separately if missing.

If the seller refuses a 7-day return window, the price should be 15-20% below market. No-return private sales are caveat emptor — your inspection is the only safety net.